The historic Lipscani neighborhood is pedestrian only. We figured out why when we saw it:

There must have been about a dozen bridal shops on this street. Later we asked whether there was a surge of weddings in Bucharest and learned Lipscani is considered a particular district for those shops, which was, frankly, a relief. The dresses were all very…voluminous.

I couldn’t resist taking this picture just because of the evidence of habitation in the top floor:

Despite learning all about Romanian customs and dress at the Peasant Museum, where I picked up these adorable dolls:

Romanian interior life remains a mystery to me:

But in case you get the wrong idea about Bucharest, also in Lipscani off a side street is Market B, a design shop/cafe. The armchair cost €2725 (about $3400). That is Susan in the mirror:

The old and the new, like in so much of Eastern Europe, butt up against each other quite literally:

Capitalism is everywhere, and that means advertising:

Do you see the funny impaled thing to the left? It sits in Revolution Plaza. We thought it was an olive. But our tour guide said when we asked what it represented, “That is what we are all wondering, 22 million people are wondering what it is. We call it a potato.”
(With only one free day, we tried to take a train to the country and a walk around town but everything appears impossible here. The hotel tried to tell us, “There are no trains, and the buses are not safe. They are very crowded, and they go too fast. ” I really think they believe Americans are just wimps and cannot handle anything. I have sat in the back of a delipidated Matatu thinking my mother would kill me if I died in Kenya and practically walked from Nairobi to Kilimanjaro without so much as asking why the bus wasn’t continuing. I can handle a crowded bus in Romania. Anyway, with short time we resorted to a hired guide, and I started to look forward to my first experience on an awful huge tour bus. It turned out it was us, a very young driver, and an extremely well-informed tour guide in a black Audi for 3 hours and €30 each.)
Speaking of Revolutionary Plaza, here is the balcony where Ceaucescu told the people that the Communist era was Romania’s golden age — right before the Army joined the people, toppled the government, tried him, and executed him by firing sqad:

This Romanian car (the first model, someone said), is the legacy he left. I just love that it has a flat tire. I have no idea why it was just sitting there:

I asked nearly every Englishspeaking Romanian I met how they felt about joining the EU earlier this year. A former professional footballer said they worked a long time for this, but he didn’t “think it was such a good thing because with the Euro now everything is much more expensive.” Ioanna said she wasn’t sure yet because changes like the agricultural regulations would affect daily life; “Our food right now has no preservatives and when the agricultural laws go into force, all our farming methods will have to change to meet European standards.” A freshman at university said he thought it was great because now there weren’t any visas to travel; when asked where he wanted to live, he said, “Everywhere!”
A walk in Gradina Cismigiu park right in the center of the city reminded me that daily life in Bucharest is not all about politics. It’s the same everywhere, really. People were enjoying lovely weather,

with cotton candy:

and drinking fountains:

There were young on bungi swings:

old playing a universal game:

and an orchestra playing Whitney Houston’s “One Moment in Time”!:

Swing was better, and they were actually quite good.

I was starting to be nostalgic for 1949 in Paris. Bucharest is actually a lot like Paris in a number of haunted ways that somehow survived Communism. Aristocrats sent their children to study in Paris, and many of those people brought the sensibility back with them.
A surreal stay wouldn’t be as surreal without being trapped in an Orthodox church, built in 1724:

We weren’t being holy. We were just impeded by a hailstorm:
